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	<title>Comments on: Tackling A Diy Plumbing Repair</title>
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		<title>By: kisses</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/tackling-a-diy-plumbing-repair.html/comment-page-1#comment-390</link>
		<dc:creator>kisses</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Jan 2009 08:30:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=28#comment-390</guid>
		<description>Home Depot has lots of books that are easy to follow. It&#039;s a lot of work, but it&#039;s not brain surgery. I build fences &amp; decks for a living, and re-mod kitchens and bathrooms. If you are a do it yourself-er, then you can do it. Otherwise, most deck builders charge by the square foot, and where I live, the price ranges from $15 -$20 per s/f. Railings are $17 per foot, and stairs are really expensive. Figure out your s/f that you want to build, and then do the math.
I built my deck. The materials cost $1300 and it took me two weekends to build. Had I charged someone to build my deck, I would have charged over $10,000</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Home Depot has lots of books that are easy to follow. It&#039;s a lot of work, but it&#039;s not brain surgery. I build fences &amp; decks for a living, and re-mod kitchens and bathrooms. If you are a do it yourself-er, then you can do it. Otherwise, most deck builders charge by the square foot, and where I live, the price ranges from $15 -$20 per s/f. Railings are $17 per foot, and stairs are really expensive. Figure out your s/f that you want to build, and then do the math.<br />
I built my deck. The materials cost $1300 and it took me two weekends to build. Had I charged someone to build my deck, I would have charged over $10,000</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: bdog441</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/tackling-a-diy-plumbing-repair.html/comment-page-1#comment-382</link>
		<dc:creator>bdog441</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Jan 2009 06:06:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=28#comment-382</guid>
		<description>lol i just put some sticky tape over the hole then painted it looks pretty good</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>lol i just put some sticky tape over the hole then painted it looks pretty good</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Me-She</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/tackling-a-diy-plumbing-repair.html/comment-page-1#comment-388</link>
		<dc:creator>Me-She</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Jan 2009 00:50:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=28#comment-388</guid>
		<description>Two important points: 1) These residents are getting ripped off unless their taxes have been reduced. This is a public works job in any part of the rest of the country. 2) If you can see down to the underlaying stone (about 4&quot;), the sidewalk should be torn up and replaced with new concrete.

That said, there are several products that can be used to repair damaged concrete. Depending on the depth of damage, either the first or third product on the link here will do the job.
http://bonsalamerican.com/sakreteproducts_view.html?id=16rdW6rO8po%3D
This is by far the cheapest way to repair broken concrete. If you want more info on how to mix and finish the repair, please contact me directly for further instructions and I can provide detailed directions to make your job simpler. A 10&#039; X10&#039; area that is not too badly damaged could cost less than $100 to fix including any tools and should take less than 3 hours.

Good Luck!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Two important points: 1) These residents are getting ripped off unless their taxes have been reduced. This is a public works job in any part of the rest of the country. 2) If you can see down to the underlaying stone (about 4&quot;), the sidewalk should be torn up and replaced with new concrete.</p>
<p>That said, there are several products that can be used to repair damaged concrete. Depending on the depth of damage, either the first or third product on the link here will do the job.<br />
http://bonsalamerican.com/sakreteproducts_view.html?id=16rdW6rO8po%3D<br />
This is by far the cheapest way to repair broken concrete. If you want more info on how to mix and finish the repair, please contact me directly for further instructions and I can provide detailed directions to make your job simpler. A 10&#039; X10&#039; area that is not too badly damaged could cost less than $100 to fix including any tools and should take less than 3 hours.</p>
<p>Good Luck!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: culley230</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/tackling-a-diy-plumbing-repair.html/comment-page-1#comment-387</link>
		<dc:creator>culley230</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Jan 2009 23:51:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=28#comment-387</guid>
		<description>Check the timer. I dont think You can fix this yourself unless you want to take a risk.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Check the timer. I dont think You can fix this yourself unless you want to take a risk.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Brennan R</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/tackling-a-diy-plumbing-repair.html/comment-page-1#comment-391</link>
		<dc:creator>Brennan R</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Jan 2009 19:45:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=28#comment-391</guid>
		<description>Drain the pool below the level of the light fixture unless you have an access hole or manhole in the deck behind the lamp.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Drain the pool below the level of the light fixture unless you have an access hole or manhole in the deck behind the lamp.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: pascobrandon</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/tackling-a-diy-plumbing-repair.html/comment-page-1#comment-383</link>
		<dc:creator>pascobrandon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Jan 2009 10:42:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=28#comment-383</guid>
		<description>Wow! Thank you so much. I couldnt figure out the pully part for nothin! lol Now my dryer is fixed. THANK YOU!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wow! Thank you so much. I couldnt figure out the pully part for nothin! lol Now my dryer is fixed. THANK YOU!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: zole</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/tackling-a-diy-plumbing-repair.html/comment-page-1#comment-389</link>
		<dc:creator>zole</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Jan 2009 08:07:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=28#comment-389</guid>
		<description>If you&#039;re going to be drilling concrete, you need a hammer drill.  Most hammer drills can turn the hammer feature off, and most of the non-SDS drills have torque clutches as well.

Professional Grade keyless chucks are very good, but, you have to get the 1-hand operation models (1 sleeve).  They usually wratched closed and hold very tightly.

Most good drill bits will have flats ground into their sides so slippage shouldn&#039;t be a problem.

Brand name comes down to two things: grade (professional or hobbyist) and price (bargain bin or top of the line).  Generally, you get what you pay for.

Some trusted professional brand names are DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Hilti, and Bosch.  Even some of those companies make hobbyist grade tools (yes, I&#039;m looking at you DeWalt with your cheap-ass 12v toy-drill) so remember: you get what you pay for.

A good, general purpose hammer drill in a professional grade from a good brand name will cost you around $150-300 bucks.  Honestly, I wouldn&#039;t go that way though.  I&#039;d get two drills.  I&#039;d get the hammer drill for masonry and big drilling (hole saws, big spades, auger bits, large step bits) and a smaller drill for everything else.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you&#039;re going to be drilling concrete, you need a hammer drill.  Most hammer drills can turn the hammer feature off, and most of the non-SDS drills have torque clutches as well.</p>
<p>Professional Grade keyless chucks are very good, but, you have to get the 1-hand operation models (1 sleeve).  They usually wratched closed and hold very tightly.</p>
<p>Most good drill bits will have flats ground into their sides so slippage shouldn&#039;t be a problem.</p>
<p>Brand name comes down to two things: grade (professional or hobbyist) and price (bargain bin or top of the line).  Generally, you get what you pay for.</p>
<p>Some trusted professional brand names are DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Hilti, and Bosch.  Even some of those companies make hobbyist grade tools (yes, I&#039;m looking at you DeWalt with your cheap-ass 12v toy-drill) so remember: you get what you pay for.</p>
<p>A good, general purpose hammer drill in a professional grade from a good brand name will cost you around $150-300 bucks.  Honestly, I wouldn&#039;t go that way though.  I&#039;d get two drills.  I&#039;d get the hammer drill for masonry and big drilling (hole saws, big spades, auger bits, large step bits) and a smaller drill for everything else.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: TheMyRune</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/tackling-a-diy-plumbing-repair.html/comment-page-1#comment-377</link>
		<dc:creator>TheMyRune</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Jan 2009 21:30:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=28#comment-377</guid>
		<description>I love this video, thanks now I can fix that hole that&#039;s in the dry-wall next to my bed lol</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I love this video, thanks now I can fix that hole that&#8217;s in the dry-wall next to my bed lol</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: MalaCrim</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/tackling-a-diy-plumbing-repair.html/comment-page-1#comment-380</link>
		<dc:creator>MalaCrim</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:50:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=28#comment-380</guid>
		<description>Good, free advice and exactly what I used to fix a wall.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good, free advice and exactly what I used to fix a wall.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: That Just Happened!</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/tackling-a-diy-plumbing-repair.html/comment-page-1#comment-386</link>
		<dc:creator>That Just Happened!</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Jan 2009 08:27:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=28#comment-386</guid>
		<description>diy.net</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>diy.net</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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