<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Diy Wall Repair Made Easy</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html</link>
	<description></description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 02 Jan 2012 09:27:50 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1</generator>
<xhtml:meta xmlns:xhtml="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" name="robots" content="noindex" />
	<item>
		<title>By: kisses</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html/comment-page-1#comment-463</link>
		<dc:creator>kisses</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Sep 2009 21:58:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=33#comment-463</guid>
		<description>Home Depot has lots of books that are easy to follow. It&#039;s a lot of work, but it&#039;s not brain surgery. I build fences &amp; decks for a living, and re-mod kitchens and bathrooms. If you are a do it yourself-er, then you can do it. Otherwise, most deck builders charge by the square foot, and where I live, the price ranges from $15 -$20 per s/f. Railings are $17 per foot, and stairs are really expensive. Figure out your s/f that you want to build, and then do the math.
I built my deck. The materials cost $1300 and it took me two weekends to build. Had I charged someone to build my deck, I would have charged over $10,000</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Home Depot has lots of books that are easy to follow. It&#039;s a lot of work, but it&#039;s not brain surgery. I build fences &amp; decks for a living, and re-mod kitchens and bathrooms. If you are a do it yourself-er, then you can do it. Otherwise, most deck builders charge by the square foot, and where I live, the price ranges from $15 -$20 per s/f. Railings are $17 per foot, and stairs are really expensive. Figure out your s/f that you want to build, and then do the math.<br />
I built my deck. The materials cost $1300 and it took me two weekends to build. Had I charged someone to build my deck, I would have charged over $10,000</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Me-She</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html/comment-page-1#comment-461</link>
		<dc:creator>Me-She</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Sep 2009 07:05:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=33#comment-461</guid>
		<description>Two important points: 1) These residents are getting ripped off unless their taxes have been reduced. This is a public works job in any part of the rest of the country. 2) If you can see down to the underlaying stone (about 4&quot;), the sidewalk should be torn up and replaced with new concrete.

That said, there are several products that can be used to repair damaged concrete. Depending on the depth of damage, either the first or third product on the link here will do the job.
http://bonsalamerican.com/sakreteproducts_view.html?id=16rdW6rO8po%3D
This is by far the cheapest way to repair broken concrete. If you want more info on how to mix and finish the repair, please contact me directly for further instructions and I can provide detailed directions to make your job simpler. A 10&#039; X10&#039; area that is not too badly damaged could cost less than $100 to fix including any tools and should take less than 3 hours.

Good Luck!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Two important points: 1) These residents are getting ripped off unless their taxes have been reduced. This is a public works job in any part of the rest of the country. 2) If you can see down to the underlaying stone (about 4&quot;), the sidewalk should be torn up and replaced with new concrete.</p>
<p>That said, there are several products that can be used to repair damaged concrete. Depending on the depth of damage, either the first or third product on the link here will do the job.<br />
http://bonsalamerican.com/sakreteproducts_view.html?id=16rdW6rO8po%3D<br />
This is by far the cheapest way to repair broken concrete. If you want more info on how to mix and finish the repair, please contact me directly for further instructions and I can provide detailed directions to make your job simpler. A 10&#039; X10&#039; area that is not too badly damaged could cost less than $100 to fix including any tools and should take less than 3 hours.</p>
<p>Good Luck!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Brennan R</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html/comment-page-1#comment-464</link>
		<dc:creator>Brennan R</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Sep 2009 02:59:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=33#comment-464</guid>
		<description>Drain the pool below the level of the light fixture unless you have an access hole or manhole in the deck behind the lamp.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Drain the pool below the level of the light fixture unless you have an access hole or manhole in the deck behind the lamp.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: That Just Happened!</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html/comment-page-1#comment-459</link>
		<dc:creator>That Just Happened!</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Sep 2009 15:25:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=33#comment-459</guid>
		<description>diy.net</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>diy.net</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: culley230</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html/comment-page-1#comment-460</link>
		<dc:creator>culley230</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Sep 2009 12:16:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=33#comment-460</guid>
		<description>Check the timer. I dont think You can fix this yourself unless you want to take a risk.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Check the timer. I dont think You can fix this yourself unless you want to take a risk.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: zole</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html/comment-page-1#comment-462</link>
		<dc:creator>zole</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Sep 2009 06:55:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=33#comment-462</guid>
		<description>If you&#039;re going to be drilling concrete, you need a hammer drill.  Most hammer drills can turn the hammer feature off, and most of the non-SDS drills have torque clutches as well.

Professional Grade keyless chucks are very good, but, you have to get the 1-hand operation models (1 sleeve).  They usually wratched closed and hold very tightly.

Most good drill bits will have flats ground into their sides so slippage shouldn&#039;t be a problem.

Brand name comes down to two things: grade (professional or hobbyist) and price (bargain bin or top of the line).  Generally, you get what you pay for.

Some trusted professional brand names are DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Hilti, and Bosch.  Even some of those companies make hobbyist grade tools (yes, I&#039;m looking at you DeWalt with your cheap-ass 12v toy-drill) so remember: you get what you pay for.

A good, general purpose hammer drill in a professional grade from a good brand name will cost you around $150-300 bucks.  Honestly, I wouldn&#039;t go that way though.  I&#039;d get two drills.  I&#039;d get the hammer drill for masonry and big drilling (hole saws, big spades, auger bits, large step bits) and a smaller drill for everything else.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you&#039;re going to be drilling concrete, you need a hammer drill.  Most hammer drills can turn the hammer feature off, and most of the non-SDS drills have torque clutches as well.</p>
<p>Professional Grade keyless chucks are very good, but, you have to get the 1-hand operation models (1 sleeve).  They usually wratched closed and hold very tightly.</p>
<p>Most good drill bits will have flats ground into their sides so slippage shouldn&#039;t be a problem.</p>
<p>Brand name comes down to two things: grade (professional or hobbyist) and price (bargain bin or top of the line).  Generally, you get what you pay for.</p>
<p>Some trusted professional brand names are DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Hilti, and Bosch.  Even some of those companies make hobbyist grade tools (yes, I&#039;m looking at you DeWalt with your cheap-ass 12v toy-drill) so remember: you get what you pay for.</p>
<p>A good, general purpose hammer drill in a professional grade from a good brand name will cost you around $150-300 bucks.  Honestly, I wouldn&#039;t go that way though.  I&#039;d get two drills.  I&#039;d get the hammer drill for masonry and big drilling (hole saws, big spades, auger bits, large step bits) and a smaller drill for everything else.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: john</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html/comment-page-1#comment-465</link>
		<dc:creator>john</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Sep 2009 16:43:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=33#comment-465</guid>
		<description>  You can learn a lot from us and watching the DIY shows and books,  but nothing  beats hands on learning. One  project will teach you stuff that will tie into another.  Take every thing w/ a grain of salt because there are never  2 projects exactly alike and you ll have to be flexible on all projects. GL</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You can learn a lot from us and watching the DIY shows and books,  but nothing  beats hands on learning. One  project will teach you stuff that will tie into another.  Take every thing w/ a grain of salt because there are never  2 projects exactly alike and you ll have to be flexible on all projects. GL</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: peebuster</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html/comment-page-1#comment-456</link>
		<dc:creator>peebuster</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Sep 2009 11:49:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=33#comment-456</guid>
		<description>AMAZING, just broke my PVC pipe w/ a shovel today!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>AMAZING, just broke my PVC pipe w/ a shovel today!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: EZrhythm</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html/comment-page-1#comment-454</link>
		<dc:creator>EZrhythm</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Sep 2009 11:23:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=33#comment-454</guid>
		<description>Nice quick explanation but there was no mention of how to get the replacement pipe and couplers in place, in the ground, on BOTH ends. Because when you slide one end on, the opposite end, if the length is correct, isn&#039;t going to clear the existing piece in order to slide that on. Make sense?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Nice quick explanation but there was no mention of how to get the replacement pipe and couplers in place, in the ground, on BOTH ends. Because when you slide one end on, the opposite end, if the length is correct, isn&#8217;t going to clear the existing piece in order to slide that on. Make sense?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Grungemarch</title>
		<link>http://www.su-casa.org/diy-wall-repair-made-easy.html/comment-page-1#comment-455</link>
		<dc:creator>Grungemarch</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Sep 2009 10:53:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.su-casa.org/?p=33#comment-455</guid>
		<description>This is the first home improvement vidieo i sall  on the list, im writing a report about how to fix a pipe lolz</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is the first home improvement vidieo i sall  on the list, im writing a report about how to fix a pipe lolz</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

