Comments on: DIY Home Flooring Improvement – Building a Floor Deck

By: chivasman75

chivasman75 — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 19:03:27 +0000

HI, I have 14 years experience in duct cleaning and I can tell u for sure that if u have a dirty dryer duct it can cause a fire and make ur dryer not work properly. In this video it looks like the duct is not that long and it just goes true the wall, however most of the time is not that simple, it runs 15 to 25 feet to the roof, side of the house or under. In this case u will need a professional with the right equipment.

By: wrangler04for40

wrangler04for40 — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 18:22:21 +0000

amehjendehsag u a fuckin dumb ass

By: memine81

memine81 — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 17:43:47 +0000

haha

By: Brennan R

Brennan R — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 10:29:30 +0000

Drain the pool below the level of the light fixture unless you have an access hole or manhole in the deck behind the lamp.

By: john

john — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 04:20:10 +0000

You can learn a lot from us and watching the DIY shows and books, but nothing beats hands on learning. One project will teach you stuff that will tie into another. Take every thing w/ a grain of salt because there are never 2 projects exactly alike and you ll have to be flexible on all projects. GL

By: culley230

culley230 — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 01:04:34 +0000

Check the timer. I dont think You can fix this yourself unless you want to take a risk.

By: kisses

kisses — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 16:34:06 +0000

Home Depot has lots of books that are easy to follow. It's a lot of work, but it's not brain surgery. I build fences & decks for a living, and re-mod kitchens and bathrooms. If you are a do it yourself-er, then you can do it. Otherwise, most deck builders charge by the square foot, and where I live, the price ranges from $15 -$20 per s/f. Railings are $17 per foot, and stairs are really expensive. Figure out your s/f that you want to build, and then do the math.
I built my deck. The materials cost $1300 and it took me two weekends to build. Had I charged someone to build my deck, I would have charged over $10,000

By: Ryodgo

Ryodgo — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 15:55:40 +0000

People are rude, but they have some valid points. I could save you 80 bucks by telling you you don’t need something too, but that doesn’t mean you don’t need it… And in this case it will cost much more then 80 in the short run. This is a misinformation-al video that offers a common problems with out a solution. cleaning you lint trap, ducts and vent should be done daily but having your dryer serviced by a professional inside and out should be done annually.

By: zole

zole — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 05:14:57 +0000

If you're going to be drilling concrete, you need a hammer drill. Most hammer drills can turn the hammer feature off, and most of the non-SDS drills have torque clutches as well.

Professional Grade keyless chucks are very good, but, you have to get the 1-hand operation models (1 sleeve). They usually wratched closed and hold very tightly.

Most good drill bits will have flats ground into their sides so slippage shouldn't be a problem.

Brand name comes down to two things: grade (professional or hobbyist) and price (bargain bin or top of the line). Generally, you get what you pay for.

Some trusted professional brand names are DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Hilti, and Bosch. Even some of those companies make hobbyist grade tools (yes, I'm looking at you DeWalt with your cheap-ass 12v toy-drill) so remember: you get what you pay for.

A good, general purpose hammer drill in a professional grade from a good brand name will cost you around $150-300 bucks. Honestly, I wouldn't go that way though. I'd get two drills. I'd get the hammer drill for masonry and big drilling (hole saws, big spades, auger bits, large step bits) and a smaller drill for everything else.

By: Me-She

Me-She — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 07:06:18 +0000

Two important points: 1) These residents are getting ripped off unless their taxes have been reduced. This is a public works job in any part of the rest of the country. 2) If you can see down to the underlaying stone (about 4"), the sidewalk should be torn up and replaced with new concrete.

That said, there are several products that can be used to repair damaged concrete. Depending on the depth of damage, either the first or third product on the link here will do the job.
http://bonsalamerican.com/sakreteproducts_view.html?id=16rdW6rO8po%3D
This is by far the cheapest way to repair broken concrete. If you want more info on how to mix and finish the repair, please contact me directly for further instructions and I can provide detailed directions to make your job simpler. A 10' X10' area that is not too badly damaged could cost less than $100 to fix including any tools and should take less than 3 hours.

Good Luck!