Aquarium Silicone Applications; Which Type of Silicone Should be Used
SILCONE BASICS:
Silicone rubber is a unique synthetic elastomer made from a cross-linked polymer which is reinforced with silica. Its characteristics are such that it provides a balance of mechanical and chemical properties useful for bonding glass aquariums (not acrylic).
The basic formula is: Me3SiO(SiMe2O)nSiMe3
RTV Silicones are the silicones commonly used for glass construction and is often sold in Home Improvement and Pet Stores (or online)
RTV Silicones consist of polydialkylsiloxane with terminal hydroxyl groups (groups made up of an oxygen atom and a hydrogen atom connected by a covalent bond), which are reacted with organosilicon (chemical compounds containing carbon silicon bonds) cross-linking agents. This operation is carried out in a moisture-free environment and results in the formation of a tetrafunctional structure (A chemical structure that possesses four highly reactive sites). Curing takes place when materials are exposed to moisture. Atmospheric moisture is sufficient to trigger the reaction, and thickness should be limited if only one side is exposed to the moisture source. Curing is also relatively slow, reliant on moisture ingress into the polymer which produces Acetic Acid vapors.
Different formulas and (combined with temperature and outside humidity) will affect cure time. Dow Corning and GE have proprietary formulas that cure at an even slow rate as compared to some cheaper formulas, especially used in construction where this is not an important factor.
100% RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant produces a flexible, durable weather resistant seal between similar and dissimilar materials; RTV Silicone provides excellent adhesion to tile, glass, porcelain, ceramic, fiberglass, non-oily woods, plaster, painted surfaces, metal, many plastics, and rubber. It will withstand temperature extremes from -60°F. to +450°F. and is waterproof for freshwater or saltwater use.
You will note that plastic (which is made from oil) is not mentioned. RTV silicone is not useful for bonding acrylic aquariums and the oils within acrylic will eventually cause peeling away (lack of adhesion).
AQUARIUM APPLICATIONS:
RTV Silicones are useful in the construction of glass aquariums and sealing the joints in DIY wooden aquariums. Silicone is NOT useful for acrylic aquariums as it will peel away over time due to the inherent oils in plastics.
Not all silicone formulas are the same, as stated earlier, Dow Corning and GE produce a RTV silicone that cures at an even and slow rate necessary for aquariums. Why is this important? Too fast a cure will not allow proper surface adhesion especially in important seams. It is also hard to work with in building aquariums and the person needs to work very quickly (usually too quickly) for proper aquarium construction.
Also you want to purchase pure 100% RTV Silicone as many (including ones produced by Dow Corning) have other ingredients for different applications such as fiberglass.
A good example of a silicone you do NOT want to purchase is Dow Corning Marine Sealant which I have actually seen recommended for aquariums! This product is great for fiberglass hulls of boats however it lacks the proper strength for aquariums due to added ingredients that allow for adhesion to plastic.
SUMMARY:
Can you easily purchase the proper silicone at a Home Improvement Store? The answer is yes, just do not purchase anything other than 100% Pure Silicone (color does not matter) and I strongly recommend brand loyalty has there are good reasons behind GE and Dow Corning patents. To be safe, if you are unsure of the silicone you are buying, don not try and save a few bucks at the local hardware store when your local Pet Store or Aquarium Store have the correct product for maybe a few dollars more (unless an exploding aquarium in the middle of the night is your idea of excitement)
For my full article (including pictures):
CORRECT AQUARIUM SILICONE APPLICATIONS (What Silicone to use and what not to use)-
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Tags: acrylic, Aquarium, Aquarium Repair, diy, Dow Corning, Freshwater, Glass, marine, Rtv, Saltwater, silicone
You don't have to sand the bottom of the door, take the door off, get a circular saw and cut about 1/4 inch off the bottom all the way across in a straight line. Make sure you draw a line. This is the only way to do it.
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/handbook
You can learn a lot from us and watching the DIY shows and books, but nothing beats hands on learning. One project will teach you stuff that will tie into another. Take every thing w/ a grain of salt because there are never 2 projects exactly alike and you ll have to be flexible on all projects. GL
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If you're going to be drilling concrete, you need a hammer drill. Most hammer drills can turn the hammer feature off, and most of the non-SDS drills have torque clutches as well.
Professional Grade keyless chucks are very good, but, you have to get the 1-hand operation models (1 sleeve). They usually wratched closed and hold very tightly.
Most good drill bits will have flats ground into their sides so slippage shouldn't be a problem.
Brand name comes down to two things: grade (professional or hobbyist) and price (bargain bin or top of the line). Generally, you get what you pay for.
Some trusted professional brand names are DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Hilti, and Bosch. Even some of those companies make hobbyist grade tools (yes, I'm looking at you DeWalt with your cheap-ass 12v toy-drill) so remember: you get what you pay for.
A good, general purpose hammer drill in a professional grade from a good brand name will cost you around $150-300 bucks. Honestly, I wouldn't go that way though. I'd get two drills. I'd get the hammer drill for masonry and big drilling (hole saws, big spades, auger bits, large step bits) and a smaller drill for everything else.
u must draw yourself sometome xD
You can go ahead and pull a permit, and you really don't need to be dishonest about the timing- just don't mention it.
Go to your local permit office and apply for the permit. Once you get the permit, just wait a couple days to call in the inspection.
The important thing is to make whatever corrections the inspector recommends, and don't be too dissapointed if it fails inspection the first time. Most inspectors are willing to explain to homeowners what they need to do to make corrections.
Home Depot has lots of books that are easy to follow. It's a lot of work, but it's not brain surgery. I build fences & decks for a living, and re-mod kitchens and bathrooms. If you are a do it yourself-er, then you can do it. Otherwise, most deck builders charge by the square foot, and where I live, the price ranges from $15 -$20 per s/f. Railings are $17 per foot, and stairs are really expensive. Figure out your s/f that you want to build, and then do the math.
I built my deck. The materials cost $1300 and it took me two weekends to build. Had I charged someone to build my deck, I would have charged over $10,000
Two important points: 1) These residents are getting ripped off unless their taxes have been reduced. This is a public works job in any part of the rest of the country. 2) If you can see down to the underlaying stone (about 4"), the sidewalk should be torn up and replaced with new concrete.
That said, there are several products that can be used to repair damaged concrete. Depending on the depth of damage, either the first or third product on the link here will do the job.
http://bonsalamerican.com/sakreteproducts_view.html?id=16rdW6rO8po%3D
This is by far the cheapest way to repair broken concrete. If you want more info on how to mix and finish the repair, please contact me directly for further instructions and I can provide detailed directions to make your job simpler. A 10' X10' area that is not too badly damaged could cost less than $100 to fix including any tools and should take less than 3 hours.
Good Luck!
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Check the timer. I dont think You can fix this yourself unless you want to take a risk.
This is awesome.
Mmm sexy even as a painting!
Awesome job!!
good to see real talent